2020年1月 3日 (金)

Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture Watch Review

Dress watches are a breed of their own, often avoided by bloggers and enthusiasts because of their delicate balance of clean and boring. I often find myself in a suit, so I’m always looking for a solid dress watch to complete the ensemble. One of the more interesting dress watches of the year came from Frederique Constant. I’ve been drawn to the brand for a while. They have done some creative things in their short time on the scene, and the Classic Moonphase Manufacture — a simple dress watch that features an in-house movement, at a fair price — is a case in point.

Before we get to the watch, I want to highlight why I find the brand so appealing. About 15 years ago, Frederique Constant looked to set itself apart from the competition (because let’s be honest, the brand is in a pretty saturated space) by starting to manufacture movements in-house.

Before we get to the watch, I want to highlight why I find the brand so appealing. About 15 years ago, Frederique Constant looked to set itself apart from the competition (because let’s be honest, the brand is in a pretty saturated space) by starting to manufacture movements in-house. This allowed them to be a little more creative and offer a better-value product than many other brands in the same price bracket. Because of this approach, they aren’t limited to heavily modifying a Sellita or ETA to achieve the desired features. The decision created a slew of interesting models, including a Flyback Chronograph and a Worldtimer that both come in at less than $5,000 — a very competitive offering. Replica Watches

The stainless steel case measures in at 42mm but is relatively thick for a dressier style watch. I don’t necessarily mind the design, but I did find a few irritants about the size and flow of the case. First, the bezel is thick, significantly rounded, and tall. I imagine the dramatic taper off the sides is intended to help the watch slide under a cuff better. However, I found the case thick enough to consistently catch on my sleeves, no matter which wrist I wore it on (eliminating the large onion crown as the culprit). Maybe I wear my sleeves too tight, but I do feel the design of the case was certainly unforgiving.

The convex sapphire crystal butts up nicely to the bezel and gives the watch a uniform aesthetic. On the wrist, it looks attractive. The lugs extend straight from the case and feature a clean taper that makes the watch very comfortable. They offset some of the thickness by sitting nicely against the wrist. I wasn’t constantly pulling the watch back to the center of my wrist, as I would have expected with a thicker watch with larger lugs (ah-la Chronoswiss). A flat sapphire crystal fits to the back, so the in-house movement is fully on display. The 5 ATM water resistance was a nice step up from the typical 3 ATM of many dress watches, though I still avoided the water.

Overall, I felt the case was a bit of an odd design choice. I recognize that other watches in the Frederique Constant catalog have similar cases, but on the Moonphase Manufacture, it feels a lot more round than it needed to be. I think lowering the size to 39mm or 40mm, with a thinner bezel, would have suited the watch a lot more — similar to the brand’s Slimline collection. For a dress watch, it felt unnecessarily large, thick, and wasn’t the easiest watch to slide under a dress shirt cuff.

Moving onto the dial, and my favorite part of the watch: it’s coherent. This spawns from the desire to split the single sub-dial display of the Classic Manufacture Moonphase (see what they did there?) into two separate displays. And to that end, it’s a beautiful design that I feel simply works. Breitling Replica

For the dial, Frederique Constant combined design features that have worked in previous models. For one, the elongated white Roman numerals are both legible and aesthetically easy on the eyes. They pop against the sunburst blue dial and don’t distract from the rest of the watch’s feature sets. The date subdial at 9 o’clock feels just large enough to be effective and recessed enough to be elegant. The moonphase at 3 o’clock matches well with the dial and, in this model, the moon has been made white as to not distract from the overall blue and white color scheme — a feature I really appreciate. The finishing on the moonphase is slick but has matte stars and moon, really helping the display “pop” out from its matching subdial.The handset is clean, with simple sword hands with a glossy white finish. They are difficult to lose in the dial and contrast nicely against the Roman numerals. I never have a hard time picking out the time at a glance. Overall, there is a large margin of error when creating a dress watch with multiple complications, and I feel like Frederique Constant nailed the dial.

Flipping the watch over, you’ll find the gorgeous FC-712. This is Frederique Constant’s 29th in-house caliber, and a serious value. The decoration is superb. The center plate features circular Geneva striping that I found more pronounced than in many movements I’ve handled. The striping is deep and catches the light nicely. Beneath, Perlage covers the entire length of the main plate. The hollowed-out gilded rotor doesn’t obstruct the view of the movement — a feature I greatly appreciate.

 

Designed around the FC-700 series, the FC-712 splits the date and moonphase into two separate complications. This took the brand two years to achieve. The automatic movement features a power reserve of 38 hours and ticks at a smooth 28,800 VpH.

Overall, I enjoyed my time with the Classic Moonphase Manufacture. Unfortunately, this watch simply didn’t fit my criteria for a dress watch, as much as I wanted it to. I found the watch well-built and easy on the eyes. However, it’s simply too bulky to wear with dress clothes. Making this 2-3mm smaller, and a few millimeters thinner, seems like a missed opportunity. I feel it would make the watch immensely more wearable with a cuff. I don’t fault the brand for trying something outside the box, and I have no doubt this watch will find buyers who won’t mind the footprint. Price for the Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase is $2,595 in stainless steel. They do have a rose-gold plated option available for $300 more. Read more about this watch at https://www.swisswatchonline.co.uk/

What Makes Monta Watches Different?

It can be hard for newer brands to differentiate themselves from the competition. To stand out from the crowded crowdfunded market takes something special. Some brands try to grab your attention with crazy colors, a mad case shape, or a complication or material experiment nobody asked for and (perhaps) nobody needs. But some brands commit themselves to just doing things better than their peers. And while subjectivity will always create 

Replica Watches UK disagreements among fans of watchmaking, certain practices do have an objective benefit to the customer. Monta is one such brand, and with its newest model, the Monta Atlas GMT watch, many of these small but worthwhile improvements to the customer experience are on show.

It can be hard for newer brands to differentiate themselves from the competition. To stand out from the crowded crowdfunded market takes something special. Some brands try to grab your attention with crazy colors, a mad case shape, or a complication or material experiment nobody asked for and (perhaps) nobody needs. But some brands commit themselves to just doing things better than their peers. And while subjectivity will always create disagreements among fans of watchmaking, certain practices do have an objective benefit to the customer. Monta is one such brand, and with its newest model, the Monta Atlas GMT watch, many of these small but worthwhile improvements to the customer experience are on show. 

Monta has invested in not just its case finishing, but also the finish of its exceptional three-link bracelet. Every single solid link has a brushed finish set against clean, polished beveled edges. The effect is one of extreme grace and effortless refinement. The strap looks and feels robust but wears elegantly, thanks to the bevel taking it into the wrist.

This attention to detail continues with the case finishing. The Monta Atlas GMT has a 38.5mm housing (which is the same width as the Monta Triumph, previously reviewed on aBlogtoWatch). Most notable about the cases from Monta is the polished bevel on the inner edge of each lug. Imbuing the lugs with a more sculptural form that can be appreciated from multiple angles is no easy task, but it is a challenge the brand has undertaken in its effort to distinguish itself from the other brands at its price point.

Fake Rolex

With a history of sourcing high quality components (Monta watches are Swiss-made in that each watch is assembled and inspected in Switzerland and contains a Swiss movement), creating solutions to problems rather than avoiding them (the rotating bezel featured on the Oceanking and Skyquest is a product of several patents, for example), and a high standard of finishing, Monta hopes to be seen as more than a simple microbrand. The company has much larger ambitions and believes the total package offered to consumers outstrips the value of those around it. The newly released Monta Atlas GMT watch retails for $1,795 on the bracelet, $1,575 on the leather straps, and $1,565 for the rubber straps. Pre-orders are currently being fulfilled with subsequent orders delivered before October 25th, 2019. To learn more, please visit https://www.swisswatchonline.co.uk/

Hands-On With The Richard Mille Bonbon Collection RM 07-03 Cupcake, RM 07-03 Marshmallow, And RM 16-01 Fraise Watches

It might sound creepy and all, but I sometimes wish I were a fly on the wall. Like when the idea for the Richard Mille Bonbon Collection was first raised and presented at the brand's HQ, or when fellow exhibiting brands at SIHH saw Richard Mille's swan song at its last SIHH this year. In other words, the Richard Mille RM 07-03 Cupcake, Richard Mille RM 07-03 Marshmallow, and Richard Mille RM 16-01 Fraise are basically destined, and perhaps programmed, to upset people - even though I am sure we would all agree to a watch industry in which such cheeky creativity is the be-all and end-all. Fake Watches

I don't know. Maybe you think you do, but in reality, you cannot know for sure, either. What I mean is that I still don't know if the Bonbon Collection is meant as a practical (and ridiculously expensive) joke, or if it is a genuine product created after careful consideration of market research and a deep understanding of a dedicated customer base. It would be tempting to go for the practical joke aspect, especially since Richard Mille is among that handful of brands that could actually pull off such a bonkers move. Just look at that wilfully wonky "SWISS MADE" text in a place where nobody asked for it or the actual cupcake-shaped crown, both on a $130,000 watch

Or just look at this diabetes-inducing dial, with lollipops and other types of sweets I don't even know the names of, all crafted by hand and laid over an elaborately machined, high-tech titanium movement that few in the luxury watch industry could even describe how to make - let alone actually make it. For the record, Richard Mille has been relying on Manufacture Vaucher's expertise for its less complex automatic movements and on APR&P for its complicated calibers. The bipolarity between a child's dream-diet and ultra-high-end watchmaking is enforced by those thick hands, which are so shockingly massive and elaborate they could give a seasoned hand-manufacturer sleepless nights over the prospect of a wasted life.

Rolex Replica

Forcing the prospect of an elaborate joke aside Fake Rolex watches, could this be a product that has come to be after Richard Mille has taken a good look at the ultra-high-end luxury accessories market, its current trends and hot-sellers, as well as the heartfelt wishes of its established customer base? Maybe all it wanted to do is design a funky, colorful, and cheerful watch that would cater exactly to them? Ariel said it best when he referred to these as jewelry items in our hands-on video from when we saw the Richard Mille Bonbon collection at SIHH 2019.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe luxury jewelry, in general, not only gets a pass for being this playful and creative but is also by and large encouraged to be exactly that. By contrast, according to some, creativity in watchmaking should be limited to shaping the plates in a hand-wound chronograph movement a bit differently... Maybe a red chronograph seconds hand is acceptable.

This has set the foundations of an environment that is often hostile and extremely critical of watches of arguably weird and unusual bursts of creativity. As such, over the years we have seen hot-selling brands get severely criticized by those so insistent on a, ahem, more traditional taste. Some historic brands, as well as quick-to-the-top ones, had been motivated by their success to release increasingly bolder new watches that they thought their brands were strong enough to take. Franck Muller and Audemars Piguet immediately come to mind with different versions of their own mistakes - and having suffered for them big time. The difference between them and Richard Mille is that, apparently, the Richard Mille brand is robust enough to bear such a cheeky twist on its core designs - though it is notable that RM has left the famed RM-11 well clear of this adventure.

Just look at where the world's leading high-end fashion houses are taking women's clothing, shoes, and accessories and you will see how basically none of the established ultra-high-end watch brands are offering anything that would even loosely fit into the world of bold proportions and crazy colors dictated by fashion companies and followed with immediate effect the world over.

In line with the painful absence of actually trendy women's watches, I have trouble imagining these pieces spending too long on the shelves. As far as women's watches are concerned, none of the established brands come close to such borderline ridiculous levels of creativity. These days, Cartier and Bulgari are playing it too much within the confinements of their own DNA, while Patek Philippe and Jaeger-LeCoultre are limited to mixing neatly executed craft with vaguely emotional inspirations, mostly cheesy stuff such as the fish of the seas, or the aurora borealis. The world's fashion-conscious rich simply can't fit those into their daily rotation of expensive clothing - and so those watches, with very few exceptions, only really pass muster within the dimension of horology but don't make enough of an impact outside. Sad, but true. Richard Mille goes all the way, into and through the wall, and gives its peers what they apparently want/need these days.

These being Richard Mille watches, they are of course chock full of high-tech and also highly refined details. Countless layers of variable thickness of Carbon TPT make up the bi-color cases of the Fruits collection, while TZP Ceramic is used to create the creamy-soft cases of the Sweets collection. To make the dials, a total of 3,000 hand-painted and hand-lacquered miniature sculptures were made and a new "sugar coating" effect was developed using powdered enamel and the fine sand from hourglasses - apparently. It's old-school artisanship wrapped inside Carbon TPT.


So, why should we watch lovers care about this weird collection of outrageously expensive candy watches? Because they shock us into remembering that haute horlogerie and delicate crafts need not only be used to create derivative watches that somehow, I suspect, get a pass and these won't. But something is telling me that the small workshop that made the 3,000 colorful dial components had a field day meeting this challenge, as opposed to painting the gazillionth cheesy enamel image onto a round dial. Just guessing.


To answer the original question, I think the solution is that the Richard Mille Bonbon Collection is a mix of both: It is a practical joke crafted after carefully gauging the number of established and tentative Richard Mille customers who have their black Centurions erect and ready for a swipe to be part of an elaborate joke like this. It's horological entertainment performed at unrivaled levels of quality in execution, topped off with the showoff power of the Richard Mille name. Give me a reason why that wouldn't work.

Frederique Constant Yacht Timer GMT And Yacht Timer Regatta Countdown Watches

Luxury watchmaker Frederique Constant continues a strong year of releases by introducing the GMT complication to the Yacht Timer family, while reviving a Yacht Master Collection favorite from 1997 in the Frederique Constant Yacht Timer Regatta Countdown watch (above). A favorite of Peter Stas, co-founder of the company, Frederique Constant released the Regatta model after just 10 years in the industry. Its arresting visual and intriguing function made it an instant classic. Now, after more than two decades without an update, the Regatta returns as a beneficiary of the manufacture's improved capacity and experience and rejoins the collection in two eye-catching colorways Replica Watch. This model more than justifies its new name ("Yacht Timer") thanks to the instantly noticeable countdown timer on the dial between 12 o'clock and center. This unmissable series of apertures is designed to count down the critical 10 minutes before competing vessels are due to cross the start line.

Boat racing is one of the few racing formats that begins before the start line. During the ten minute countdown, competing vessels can jostle for position to catch the best wind or get a strategic advantage over a rival. The 10-minute window is crucial for timing the exact moment to strike. Inaccurate timekeeping could result in a crew having to abandon a positive launch and track to the back of the field to cross the start line fairly. That kind of blown maneuver is often enough to cost a vessel any chance of coming home in first.

Pleasingly, this is not a watch that is "inspired" by nautical endeavors; it is actually intended for use. It is a functional, highly-refined racing tool that is comfortable accompanying the world's best skippers on deck. So how does it work? Each circle represents one minute. When set to zero, the centrally mounted seconds hand remains static at 12 and the apertures match the dial color (so blue on the blue dial and white on the white dial). When the countdown timer is activated, the seconds hand begins its travel and the circles change from blue to white, or white to blue, depending on the dial. When all five circles have changed color and the seconds hand hits 12, five minutes have passed. This countdown is commenced by the top pusher, stopped by the top pusher, and reset by the bottom pusher, as you would expect for a simple twin-pusher chronograph.

The GMT model, however, does not feature such an active complication. Instead, it is suited to the global traveler looking for a stylish and refined watch from an affordable manufacture. Powered by the FC-350 movement, the Yacht Timer's GMT function is driven by an in-house, dial-side module. The movement is self-winding and has a 38-hour power reserve, an operating speed of 28,800vph, and a useful date function at 3 o'clock. Luminous in low-light conditions and water-resistant to 100 meters, the Frederique Constant Yacht Timer GMT watch is more than just a pretty face and has been designed to survive as a real-world companion on all manner of expeditions.

Both the Frederique Constant Yacht Timer GMT And Yacht Timer Regatta Countdown watches measure 42mm across. The Regatta Countdown model is available in a stainless steel with a white dial (reference FC-380ST4H6 priced at $3,195), a bi-color option with a white dial (reference FC-380VT4H2B, $3,395), or with a rose gold plated finish with a navy blue dial (reference FC-380NT4H4 for $3,495). Meanwhile, the GMT comes in either an anthracite dial and a bi-color case and bracelet combo for $1,995 (reference FC-350GT4H2B), or a rose gold plated finish sporting a white dial on a brown leather strap, which retails for $2,095 (reference FC-350VT4H4). Learn more about these models and one of the industry's most accessible manufactures at https://www.swisswatchonline.co.uk/

G-SHOCK Channels Ancient Japanese Armor with New MRGB1000D

G-SHOCK continues to expand and upgrade its high-end MR-G collection while also continuing to delve into the history and tradition of its native Japan for inspiration. The new MRGB1000D is a mid-size model in titanium with black-and-red accents that evoke the look of ancient Japanese armor and swords.

The case and bracelet of the Replica Watch MRGB1000D are made of titanium that has been deep surface hardened, making it four to five times harder than conventional titanium, and then given a titanium carbide finish for improved scratch-resistance and a lustrous silvery hue on the surfaces. The bezel, anchored at its four corners by four visible screws, has a sleek black finish thanks to its black DLC (diamond-like carbon) coating. The dial’s face features bold red details — including the central seconds hand, the scale on the 9 o’clock “mode” subdial, and the indices along the flange — which take their inspiration from the red-braided armor worn by samurai warriors of feudal Japan.

The handsome sheen of the case and the bracelet links are achieved through state-of-the-art Sallaz polishing, a technique in which artisans carefully polish each surface to bring it to a beautiful mirror-like finish. The highly scratch-resistant sapphire crystal which has a high transparency index, has a nonreflective coating to help keep information easy to read. Like previous MR-G models, the watch uses solar power and Bluetooth connectivity for accurate timekeeping no matter where in the world the wearer finds himself. The advanced time correction system uses Bluetooth and radio-controlled time calibration signals to acquire time information and to reflect up-to-the-minute changes in time zone status such as Daylight Savings Times. G-SHOCK’s Tough Solar power system generates plentiful energy that ensures uninterrupted operation of the watch’s array of power-hungry functions. Fake Rolex

Among these functions are the time and date, world time indications in more than 300 cities, a chronograph and countdown timer, a daily alarm, a battery-level indicator, and a full calendar accurate to the year 2099. The watch boasts G-SHOCK’s legendary shock resistance and antimagnetic properties, with an anti-magnetic plate inside the module enhances radio wave reception sensitivity and ensures anti-magnetism during normal daily use. Users can pair the watch with the MR-G connected app for a host of smartphone-linked functions, and a high-brightness LED light ensures easy reading of the displays at night, during bad weather, and any other time lighting is poor. Finally, thanks to reductions in the sizes of the Bluetooth communication and time calibration signal receiver modules, G-SHOCK engineers were able to reduce both the size and thickness of the outer case by approximately two millimeters for a more comfortable, wrist-hugging form that still projects the robustness and majesty of a G-SHOCK watch.

The G-SHOCK MRGB1000D-1A is priced at $2,400. For more info on the G-SHOCK MR-G series, the rest of the collection, and where to purchase them, visit the G-SHOCK website.

2019年12月 9日 (月)

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 James Bond On Her Majesty’s Secret Service Watch

resh off the press is a new Omega Seamaster dedicated to James Bond, Agent 007. The latest Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 James Bond On Her Majesty’s Secret Service is presented for the 50th anniversary of the sixth movie in the James Bond Series. Whether you are a fan of that specific movie, James Bond, or “just” the Seamaster, this reference 210.22.42.20.01.004 is packed with interesting details that you’ll want to know about, so let us discover them now.

Omega has been the official watch of James Bond ever since Watch Replicas UK 1995, beginning with GoldenEye — that’s a solid run of 25 years and 8 feature films. Still, Omega reaching back to pre-Omega days of the franchise is a fascinating choice, given that pre-1995 James Bond was mostly known as a Rolex man. Perhaps Omega wants the world to see them marking James Bond — all of it — their territory now, and given that 25-year track record, that isn’t quite so much of an over-reach as it might at first appear.
Omega has been the official watch of James Bond ever since 1995, beginning with GoldenEye — that’s a solid run of 25 years and 8 feature films. Still, Omega reaching back to pre-Omega days of the franchise is a fascinating choice, given that pre-1995 James Bond was mostly known as a Rolex man. Perhaps Omega wants the world to see them marking James Bond — all of it — their territory now, and given that 25-year track record, that isn’t quite so much of an over-reach as it might at first appear.

That quarter of a century marked not only 8 movies, but a fair number of special edition commercially available Seamaster watches dedicated to its role alongside James Bond. As such, by now Omega has this practice nailed down and knows exactly how many 007-derived details to pour into its limited editions, balancing between neither making the watches gimmicky, nor leaving them uninteresting for fans of 007 and 007-themed Omega watches.

Consequently, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 James Bond On Her Majesty’s Secret Service offers six notable details to have fans reaching for their wallets in excitement Fake Breitling Watches. First, and perhaps most apparently, there is the dial itself: crafted from spiral-brushed black ceramic (not lacquered brass, but solid ceramic), it features James Bond’s iconic gun barrel design, laser engraved into the ceramic. The very center of the spiral is in fact exactly 9mm wide, hinting at the size of the common cartridge used in pistols… Even though, apparently, Bond in the movie On Her Majesty’s Secret Service used a Walther PPK with a .32 ACP cartridge that actually means a slightly smaller diameter of 7.65mm. To Omega’s credit, the Walther PPK has indeed also been manufactured with a 9mm caliber and Bond has used plenty of 9mm guns later on, so if you are a fan of the more modern Bond, this detail is for you. Plus, it has to be said that the dial does look more proportionate with the slightly wider, 9mm center that they opted for.Rolexdaytona116588tbreyeofthetigerrorsch

Then, at the 12 o’clock position we have a special index inspired by the Bond family coat-of-arms. All indices and hands are crafted from 18kt yellow gold, a fitting choice of material for a 50th anniversary, and are filled with Super-LumiNova with the color-coordinated green minute hand and bezel pip. The rest of the indications show up in bright blue in the dark.

Take a closer look at night and the third feature, “a secret signature” reveals itself: at the 10 o’clock (50-minute) marker, the lume reveals “50,” as another tribute to the 50th anniversary of On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. There is a pattern here: the black-on-black gun barrel pattern, the minute detailing of the 12 o’clock marker, and “50” showing up in just one of the indices add up to a neat balancing act between Bond-specific details and everyday wearability.

Fourth, we are looking at a special detail on the date disc, something that will make 007 fans look forward to the 7th of the month that much more: number 7 is painted in the trademark 007 font. Speaking of which, as the fifth feature we are looking at a numbered plate set into the left side of the 42mm wide stainless steel case: an 18kt yellow gold plate, engraved with the unique limited edition number — no “one of 7’007” nonsense here, they are all individually numbered. Once again, Omega is yielding a double edged sword with these limited editions: some customers expect a certain level of exclusivity, but not too much exclusivity otherwise they themselves won’t be able to get their hands on it. So, yes, 7,007 watches is a lot for a limited edition — but not a lot for a global base of Seamaster and James Bond fans.

As the sixth detail comes the caseback. Omega has not supplied caseback images with the release but we were able to secure one from their brief product launch video. The transparent caseback reveals the Omega Master Co-Axial Calibre 8800, an in-house caliber with Master Chronometer certification, 55 hours of power reserve and an in-house tested daily rate between 0 and +5 seconds. Over the neatly decorated movement rests the Bond family crest noting “Orbis Non Sufficit” — i.e. the world is not enough. Rings a bell? It should.

One additional feature of this limited edition Omega Seamaster is its special presentation case that adds the stainless steel bracelet along with the rubber strap, along with a strap changing tool and a travel pouch with the Bond family crest on it. This may be one step too far for some, but truth be told, I’d find no hardship in rocking a Bond-style watch pouch.

To close on a personal note that hopefully you will be able to relate to, I will say that while I’m certainly not the biggest James Bond fan in the world (I just thoroughly enjoy the series), I’d still be very tempted to get this particular Seamaster over the regular one, simply for its exciting, fun, yet elegantly done details which I’d expect to find entertaining down the road. We don’t often see gun barrel patterned ceramic dials on watches, nor coats of arms in indices, and that’s not because they aren’t cool, but because you need a theme to be able to add these to an already successful watch collection. With the James Bond Seamaster, Omega has those bases well and truly covered.